Changing my Water Pump

[Rj91gsx]

Hey guys, I know havent posted here before but i been with codsm club for some time and im workin on gettin my eclipse running again. Currently the project is changing the Water Pump.
So i got my Haynes repair manual which is a big help so far but i neeed to know if any of u have done this before and what the most effective method is.
I was considering on taking it off and putting it on threw the Wheel well but I'm not sure never worked on a water pump before. So i need some help is it better to change it from the wheel well or from above.
And then it says i also have to loosen my timeing belt. What is a good White marker/chalk whatever that I can mark it with so i know i put the belt on correctly.

Be great to get some help from you guys.
Thanks Rj
91 GS-X

[Kibo]

The Timing Belt VFAQ (http://www.vfaq.com/FAQlocator-engine.html) should help you to understand what's involved in replacing the water pump. Most people replace the water pump when replacing the timing belt, since you need to remove the timing belt and the tensioner pulley to access the water pump. When was the last time your timing belt (and related items) was replaced?

[Rj91gsx]

Well im not sure when i purchased the car with 144k he said the belt had ben replaces around 130k it currently has 177k. But it seems like a good idea to replace the belt anyways. Im about to take a look at the site you gave me. But what else do you recomend i should take a look at replacing along with it?

[Kibo]

I replace everything when doing the timing belt. Assuming you're not removing your balance shafts, that includes TB tensioner pulley, TB idler pulley, timing belt, balance shaft belt, balance shaft belt tensioner pulley, tensioner, and water pump (+gasket and o-ring).

On a high-mileage engine like yours I would usually recommend removing the balance shafts as well for reliability concerns (balance shaft bearings have a tendency to spin on high-mileage motors), but that's a matter of personal preference and adds a great deal of work to the project.

If you can afford it and they haven't ever been replaced, you may also want to replace the front case and oil pump gears. After 177k miles, the oil pump is probably fairly worn.

Hope that helps.

[drcustom]

I'd agree with all of this. It adds up if you do it right, but for the peace of mind and to avoid the hassle/cost of a timing belt failure it's a small price to pay.

At a bare minimum, I would remove the balance shafts (less than $20 in parts from the dealer), and replace the timing belt (with OEM), and tensioner ($60 or so from www.partsdinosaur.com), along with the pulleys if they are showing any signs of wear (about $20-$25 a piece).





I replace everything when doing the timing belt. Assuming you're not removing your balance shafts, that includes TB tensioner pulley, TB idler pulley, timing belt, balance shaft belt, balance shaft belt tensioner pulley, tensioner, and water pump (+gasket and o-ring).

On a high-mileage engine like yours I would usually recommend removing the balance shafts as well for reliability concerns (balance shaft bearings have a tendency to spin on high-mileage motors), but that's a matter of personal preference and adds a great deal of work to the project.

If you can afford it and they haven't ever been replaced, you may also want to replace the front case and oil pump gears. After 177k miles, the oil pump is probably fairly worn.

Hope that helps.

[Dane Becher]

One thing I wish I had done last TB swap was replace all the front case oil seals. I think NAPA carries a whole kit.

BTW, regarding the ballance shafts, I'm at 225k miles with nothing but mainenance done to the engine:eek:. If a stock BS can make it beyond 200k how can removing it increase the reliability beyond replacing with another factory part :confused: ? I've never done it but I assume the bearing can be replaced too. I seem to notice more issues with people who have removed them vs people who leave them alone or replace with a factory replacment. I guess, as always, YMMV.

[Kibo]

Removing the balance shafts can increase reliability in a number of ways. For one, high mileage motors are prone to spinning the balance shaft bearings. The balance shaft seizes, which snaps the balance shaft belt, which gets eaten by the timing belt, which munches your valves... My best guess is that most of these instances are on vehicles with old oil pumps, or perhaps a less-than-stellar maintenance history. If you've replaced your front case and oil pump gears, I'd be less concerned.

Besides, the balance shaft elimination parts are OEM--so I *am* replacing the balance shaft with "another factory part". :p

[mpdeneen]

Removing the balance shafts can increase reliability in a number of ways. For one, high mileage motors are prone to spinning the balance shaft bearings. The balance shaft seizes, which snaps the balance shaft belt, which gets eaten by the timing belt, which munches your valves... My best guess is that most of these instances are on vehicles with old oil pumps, or perhaps a less-than-stellar maintenance history. If you've replaced your front case and oil pump gears, I'd be less concerned.

Besides, the balance shaft elimination parts are OEM--so I *am* replacing the balance shaft with "another factory part". :p

One thing to add to the BSE discussion: If you're going to do it, you should port your oil filter housing too. This was not done on my 1G and now she sees 100+ psi at WOT. There are threads on how to do it, although to the best of my knowledge there is no hard data other than "I made it look like this".

-M

[Mirage]

Just be sure to not port it to the point where the piston does not slide smoothly in it's bore. Just make sure it doesn't rock and does not bind up within it's range of motion and you'll be good.

Marcus