Recommended Radiator

[sleepy]

My radiator is now leaking (again). So is there an aluminum replacement radiator out there for a 91 GVR4? Thx. :(

[XakEp]

Why not a new stock radiator? Works great for most people.

[Mirage]

Go to Florida Radiator, Denver Radiator (Serck) or Performance.

All will have a brass/copper constructed radiator for somewhere around $100-$120.

All metal construction and they're just as thick.

Marcus

[Cloud]

Dump another tube of Alumaseal in it =P I had to use 2 tubes of it on mine but it eventually stopped leaking. I still opted to go with an aluminum one later because I just didn't feel like dealing with an old radiator anymore but it still worked at least. Beware of some of the other sealers, they will clog your heater core and the like, I have had good luck with Alumiseal though.

[sleepy]

Why not a new stock radiator? Works great for most people.

Cause that would make number 3 for this car.... You kind of get tired of throwing money away on plastic... :-)

[sleepy]

Go to Florida Radiator, Denver Radiator (Serck) or Performance.

All will have a brass/copper constructed radiator for somewhere around $100-$120.

All metal construction and they're just as thick.

Marcus

I'll give these guys a shot then - thanks.

[XakEp]

Cause that would make number 3 for this car.... You kind of get tired of throwing money away on plastic... :-)

Thats gotta suck.

[Ghettodsm]

on a side not what are they added benefits of running a copper or brass radiator, i found this site so far, apparently the cuprobraze has lower melting point. http://www.copper.org/innovations/2000/03/cuprobraze.html

[Cloud]

Copper/Brass traditionally has higher heat transfer rates because of its material properties. This isn't necessarily true in a radiator though because solder joints and all the microstructure that goes into making a copper/brass radiator can be unfavorable to conduction through the material. Aluminum radiators tend to have much better material links in the structure but also aluminum itself conducts heat at a slower rate.

Ultimately average automotive radiators tend to dissipate about the same heat per area regardless of material because of these conflicting attributes. Aluminum is significantly lighter though. When you start talking about spending more money and getting really nice construction and tolerances the copper/brass radiators will pretty much always win on heat rejection per space consumed. Aluminum will typically almost always be lighter still. My koyo radiator was maybe half the weight of the stock copper unit and cools comparably. In a performance application generally aluminum is what is used because the weight reduction is more important than the space and cooling can be improved more significantly through changes in air ducting.

[sleepy]

Ultimately average automotive radiators tend to dissipate about the same heat per area regardless of material because of these conflicting attributes. Aluminum is significantly lighter though. When you start talking about spending more money and getting really nice construction and tolerances the copper/brass radiators will pretty much always win on heat rejection per space consumed. Aluminum will typically almost always be lighter still. My koyo radiator was maybe half the weight of the stock copper unit and cools comparably. In a performance application generally aluminum is what is used because the weight reduction is more important than the space and cooling can be improved more significantly through changes in air ducting.

Understood - basically I really wanted to get rid of the plastic to metal thing as it seems the plastic always gives out. So I was looking for a completely metal radiator. However, I could not find one so I ended up with plastic caps :-(

[Cloud]

Plastic radiators are friggin garbage. It's the cheapest thing they can make. I hate them with a passion.

[Ghettodsm]

well after doing some research, when i do go with a aftermarket radiator it will probably be a koyo or some other aluminum made core. The brass units do offer a better boiling point but they can also corrode alot easier when running water. Electrolysis does not sound fun to me. Apparently copper/brass needs to be properly grounded as well, because of the zinc and conductivity that copper and brass properties carry. I was thinking a small radiator such as one off of a honda? Space is going to be an issue,as I'm sure it is for everyone with aftermarket turbo's.

[Mirage]

If this is going to be for your '90 with the 3575, a smaller radiator is not needed as everything fits in stock location.

Unless you have something else up your sleeve.

Marcus

[Cloud]

Small radiators are a bad idea for everything except a purpose built drag car. If clearance is a problem get slim fans, if you run a pair together they do a decent job even when it's hot out.

[Ghettodsm]

If this is going to be for your '90 with the 3575, a smaller radiator is not needed as everything fits in stock location.

Unless you have something else up your sleeve.

Marcus

yeah it is, no nothing up my sleeve except some dirty arm pits hehe. So the stock fans fit as well?

[Mirage]

I ended up going with a single pusher fan going in place where the stock A/C condenser went. It stayed decent even with daily driving in 95+ degree weather and spirited driving in 85+ degree.

If I could do it again, I'd go with a second pusher as well. Safety first!

Marcus

[Kibo]

Aluminum is significantly lighter though.

Perhaps on a table of elements, but when I replaced my stock GVR4 radiator with a Fluidyne it weighed about 1/2 lb more. Add to that the slightly increased fluid capacity, and my car actually gained weight. I'm not going to complain about a pound or two, but you shouldn't be buying an aluminum radiator in order to save weight.

[Cloud]

Perhaps on a table of elements, but when I replaced my stock GVR4 radiator with a Fluidyne it weighed about 1/2 lb more. Add to that the slightly increased fluid capacity, and my car actually gained weight. I'm not going to complain about a pound or two, but you shouldn't be buying an aluminum radiator in order to save weight.

Interesting, the factory radiator from my talon was at least twice as much as the koyo unit when they were both dry... that seems really strange.

[Kibo]

Is the koyo single row or double? I think the Fluidyne was single, but I no longer own it so I can't say for sure. It could be that you had sludge built up in your stock radiator as well--I have a stock GVR4 radiator in the basement that weighs a *ton* because of all the crap inside it (presumably).

[Mirage]

My Fluidyne is heavier as well. Heavier than both a stock plastic tank and a stock replacement all metal unit.

I do not have numbers as I never got them onto a scale, but you can easily tell there was a difference.


Marcus

[Cloud]

Hm, that's interesting to hear. I don't recall if the koyo was single or double, I'm pretty sure it's over 2" thick though so I think it may have been double. It's certainly possible that the radiator was heavier from built up solids. I wonder how many different constructions the 'stock' radiators came in. I have seen all copper, plastic/copper mix, and I wonder how many different build iterations were involved with those as well, there may also have been some with steel parts as I recall seeing some with orange rusted fins in junkyards.