Clutch Master Cylinder - repair or replace?

[drcustom]

It looks like a new kit is $15...any experience with these working/not working?

It looks like this can be done with the CMC in the car...would be nicer than replacing the master cylinder.

[burnett03]

It looks like a new kit is $15...any experience with these working/not working?

It looks like this can be done with the CMC in the car...would be nicer than replacing the master cylinder.

It's not clear what your question is.. Are you asking about the rebuild kits? Yes i've seen them work, but i've seen them not work if you dont install them right, or if you do it with dirt aroujnd them.. Personally i just get the full master cylinder. I don't see how you would do it with the clutch master still in the car, or why you would even want to, it'd be a pain in the butt.

[drcustom]

It looks to me like you can get the rod and other stuff out of the way...giving enough space to get the rebuild kit in...I"m making an assumption that swapping the guts isn't a terribly horrible experience...maybe a little more difficult while in the car, but far less difficult than swapping the whole master cylinder.

No idea though - anyone have any actual experience with the kit or the swap? I've also heard mixed reviews but I'm hoping to hear from someone who's had to go through this.

[rodent]

Mine is leaking so it would be nice to know.

I just ordered a Raybestos clutch master and slave. I was going to them at the same time but it sounds like it might be easier just to install the kit.

[burnett03]

After doing Stephen's clutch master cylinder on his 1g no way in hell would i try to rebuild it while leaving it in.. It was hard enough getting to it to get it out, let alone taking it apart under the dash. If i recall they use a snap ring clip and it would be impossible to get out underneat the dash. Why not just spend the extra two minutes and unbolt the two 12mm bolts holding it to the firewall and take the whole unit out?

[prophecymiller]

When I replaced my clutch I got a new master and slave cylinder. The problem with rebuilding them is the piston bore gets scored inside-which is usually why they go bad and you might end up with a bad master cylinder even after the rebuild kit, so I would definitely recommend just putting a new unit in to save a potential headache. It only took me a few minutes to change the master cylinder out, so it should be an easy job. If I remember right, a new master cylinder isn't too expensive from mitsubishi, and the discount for us as mile high should help too.

[burnett03]

When I replaced my clutch I got a new master and slave cylinder. The problem with rebuilding them is the piston bore gets scored inside-which is usually why they go bad and you might end up with a bad master cylinder even after the rebuild kit, so I would definitely recommend just putting a new unit in to save a potential headache. It only took me a few minutes to change the master cylinder out, so it should be an easy job. If I remember right, a new master cylinder isn't too expensive from mitsubishi, and the discount for us as mile high should help too.

Agreed, like i said i always just replace them, it's not worth it. I believe we got it from advance for like 50$ maybe? And it was about 45mins of work, including the clutch bleeding and a beer. Also why isn't this thread in the drivetrain forum?

[matthewdesigns]

Straightforward enough to replace the whole thing. I'd say go that route, too. IIRC, I had about an hour in it when I did mine.

I got mine from Napa a couple of years ago, no problems thus far.

[drcustom]

That's all good to know...but are you guys with experience talking about 2g's? This is a 98 AWD

When looking at it first I was thinking it would be a real pain to get out of there.

I was just thinking that maybe the lines would move right out of the way...still not sure if you're talking 1g experiences. The firewall bolt looked tough to get to, but otherwise it didn't seem too bad...aside from the lines...the concern was that it would be a serious pain to get at the line fittings. If it's been done and it's not all that bad I think we'll give it a try.

I felt like there'd be enough room to get at the circlip (my buddies fater in law was a serious mechanic...he still has half a dozen pairs of circlip pliers), but that's why I asked...

Thanks for all the great input!

[burnett03]

That's all good to know...but are you guys with experience talking about 2g's? This is a 98 AWD

When looking at it first I was thinking it would be a real pain to get out of there.

I was just thinking that maybe the lines would move right out of the way...still not sure if you're talking 1g experiences. The firewall bolt looked tough to get to, but otherwise it didn't seem too bad...aside from the lines...the concern was that it would be a serious pain to get at the line fittings. If it's been done and it's not all that bad I think we'll give it a try.

I felt like there'd be enough room to get at the circlip (my buddies fater in law was a serious mechanic...he still has half a dozen pairs of circlip pliers), but that's why I asked...

Thanks for all the great input!
Even if it were easy to get to, it'd be a mess underthere. You are bound to get clutch fluid all over once you pull the piston out, and you risk getting dirt and such in it.. Plus like said above the bore might not even be good anymore. So why risk it? Why not just replace the whole unit?

[drcustom]

The effort seemed prohibitive at first glance.

After taking another look at it I don't think it will be too bad.

I'm thinking you just pull the resivior/bracket, that lets you get to the nut on the firewall pretty easily, then (assuming the interior stuff is done), you'll be able to move the cylinder enough to get the fitting on top - or maybe this can be done while still connected?

Either way, it's getting replaced.

[matthewdesigns]

That's all good to know...but are you guys with experience talking about 2g's? This is a 98 AWD

My car is a '96 AWD.

Pull the reservoir as you subsequently noted and you'll be on your way :)

[rodent]

Finally did mine yesterday. Much easier than expected. A socket u-joint socket adapter helps.

On another note, I got Checkers to match Autozones price with the better Raybestos brand. After looking at my stocker and the Raybestos brand, they are the exact same. Brand new (not reman) made in Japan, same brand name (Nabco I think) on the side. So basically Raybestos = OEM. Not sure about the clutch slave but I'm also using Raybestos. Got the master for around $67.

[BLueBeast]

I would only go with a genuine Mitsubishi unit.

I've heard & seen nothing but bad from the aftermarket ones. My friend ran one & it went out quick, kinda like an aftermarket alternator, IMO.

Crappy seals & they start leaking.

[drcustom]

I would only go with a genuine Mitsubishi unit.

I've heard & seen nothing but bad from the aftermarket ones. My friend ran one & it went out quick, kinda like an aftermarket alternator, IMO.

Crappy seals & they start leaking.

Yeah I had heard that, and I told him to go OEM but he couldn't resist the cost...two months later we replaced it again with an OEM unit.

[rodent]

OEM= Nabco
Raybestos= Nabco (new, not reman, made in japan).

Whats the difference?

I can see other brands causing issues.

[BLueBeast]

OEM= Nabco
Raybestos= Nabco (new, not reman, made in japan).

Whats the difference?

I can see other brands causing issues.


I didn't know Nabco made the OEM ones.

I'm sure if you find out who makes the original OEM parts, you can get a good unit w/o worry. But going with a non japanese built one or a no name brand is asking for trouble. Also I'm sure there are some alright American companys that make aftermarket parts, but a lot of times something is lost in translation....haha.

You know how the Japanese are, they work for the same company for most of their life & when they mess up it DISHONORS THEIR WHOLE FAMILY!! AAAH!!

SAMURAI spirit into every CAR & ELECTRONIC part manufactured in JAPAN!!

None of this "its 5 o'clock bill, lets go drink some beers"

[Brett_L]

Meh a new one has no hassle and its only 30 bucks more.

[99mitsuspyder]

New one for sure.

[drcustom]

Thanks to everyone for the replies, a new OEM unit was installed in February.

The question was if the kits were worth considering...not necessarily because of the cost (~$70 vs. ~$15), but because we thought replacing would be a lot more work than it actually was (it's a lot easier to get at than it looks at first glance).

[99mitsuspyder]

It does look daunting sometimes. I have got one out and back in in under 15 minutes.