Any Centerforce DFX 6-puck users?

[JSMCPN]

I'm looking for customer opinions and maybe a test-drive if anyone here uses a CF DFX 6-puck.
My car is too powerful for a Centerforce Dual-Friction, and I refuse to install crankwalk on my 2g (AKA a pressure plate that puts 700 lbs of force on the thrust bearing) so I either need an expensive, noisy, awesome PTT twin-disc clutch (very nice to thrust bearings!), or maybe a Centerforce DFX 6-puck.

[Zeppelin]

What about an ACT2100 with a 4 or 6 puck? I hear the Fidanza clutches are pretty nice too.

How ya been man? Haven't talked to you in ages!

[JSMCPN]

I have definitely considered a 2100/6-puck, but people keep stressing to me that puck discs are on/off engagement and just break drivetrain parts.
Centerforce assures me the DFX 6-puck sprung disc is quite streetable though! :confused:

Heavy pressure plates aren't really my thing either. I think the best choice for me, really expensive though, is the Exedy Twin-Disc. I want something I can slip a lot - and the cerametallic discs seem to let that happen. I get mixed opinions on the Quartermaster and PTT units, some say they are also on/off, others say they have no problem slipping them like crazy. One downside to these: unsprung discs damage synchros over time.

I always want the best of all worlds, but it's just not gonna happen! Maybe I should just get a 2600 and cross my fingers... ugh!

[Zeppelin]

From what I've read the puck disks will give a little slippage until they heat up, then they grab. They would most likely be streetable as long as it's not constant stop and go driving.

I'm skeptical of the Centerforce clutches because of the street disk's inability to hold up to heat. I'm not sure how the puck disk is, but I wouldn't risk it with all of the other options out there.

If you want to test drive my 2600, let me know. The pedal is pretty stiff, but not too bad once you get used to it.

[thiazole]

I'm certainly no expert on clutches, but it seems like somewhat of a contradiction to want a clutch that will hold more torque, but has the same or less clamp force and the same or lower coefficient of friction. Something eventually has to give. I chose coefficient of friction (aka Spec 2+). You can't do much to prevent a 2600 from causing your crank to walk, but you can learn to drive a stickier clutch. After I first got my clutch, I was worried that I wouldn't be able to launch right, but after about a month of driving with it, I didn't miss the old clutch at all. It is all relative, IMO. If the pedal distance between where the clutch starts to grab and is fully engaged drops by 50%, your brain reprograms itself for that and you adjust.

[Overkill]

Jesse,

I would go with the ACT 2600 6 puck and I think you'll be surprised at the amount of slipping you can do for street driving. I was using an aluminum fidanza flywheel and could still slip the clutch. If you use a stock flywheel with a 2600 you will probably find the slipping the clutch is very easy to do.

I can't speak on behalf of the Centerforce!

[JSMCPN]

I'm certainly no expert on clutches, but it seems like somewhat of a contradiction to want a clutch that will hold more torque, but has the same or less clamp force and the same or lower coefficient of friction. ..... .....
If the pedal distance between where the clutch starts to grab and is fully engaged drops by 50%, your brain reprograms itself for that and you adjust.

I am not worried about adapting to a new clutch setup, and I understand the tradeoffs of clamp vs friction material, which is why I like the CFDF - it has good clamping AND acceptable force on thrust bearing, AND has gentle engagement, BUT the flywheel-side material doesn't like heat. The CFDFX is just a 6-puck version with a few other tweaks, that probably holds ~115 torques extra (based on ACT full-face vs segmented disc). If the DFX engagement is soft relative to other 6 pucks, then it will be perfect for me, just like the CFDF was before my last round of mods.

Basically, I just need to decide what other part I want to break :)

2600 vs. thrust bearing and clutch release parts (I want my engine to LAST, otherwise I'd put one in!)
CFDFX vs. CF friction material
2-Disc vs. wallet and synchros (Fluidampr helps a little)

Exedy Twin, QM Twin, and PTT Twin all have strengths and weaknesses. Exedy engages the best due to ceramic material, but won't hold much over 450 TQ, and costs $1500.
QM holds tons of power but is rather unforgiving if you don't give it your full attention.
PTT is nearly the same as a QM but tweaked to be slightly more DSM-friendly.
All 3 must use unsprung discs, which transmit bad vibes.

I am tired of thinking about this problem :cool:

[BlueVelocity]

Twindisc.

[Mirage]

QM Twin. Last clutch I'll ever buy for my car.

There is a lot of drivetrain resonance with this thing, but it has easy pedal pressure and will hold all the power I'll ever make.

Just be sure to not get the early disks as the splines in the hub liked to strip. The later disks have been hardened and are fine.

Marcus

[v413nc3]

Twins are actually easier on synchro's according to Shep and Ripple (TRE). They disengage quick and smoothe and let them do their job. They're a pain at first to get used to but once you do they're awesome. They do *not* come with a warning of a clutch starting to slip meaning you are over heating the hell out of them. The hotter they get, the more they grab which means you can warp the hell out of them. And all in all they're not as expensive as you'd think :)

[JSMCPN]

Well, I ordered a CFDFX. If it's not enough, I'll go with a twin disc. I'd rather save money now, and only spend more if I NEED to later. Thanks for the input, I know twins are the way to go with big power but I don't think I've crossed that threshold yet.

I will post my opinions and expierience with the DFX once I've got it broken in!

[burnett03]

I'm curious what jack has to say about this.. I have one of his premium built trannies and will need a clutch soon to hold near 500hp. I know the tranny will take it but should i get a 6puck or would that be to hard on the tranny?

[JSMCPN]

My new CFDFX arrived yesterday. It's a mean looking unit, it is NOT a dual-friction disc like the CFDF is. It's the same carbon/metallic compound on both sides, fairly thin compared to normal clutch materials. Carbon/metallic can take quite a bit of heat and even though this is a 6-puck disc, the material should allow for the amount of slippage I want to give it at the track without giving out so easy.

I will post pictures tonight - I know everyone seems to hate Centerforce (why??) but I have a feeling this clutch will kick ass!

[Mirage]

I think it's because of the track record that CF had in years past.

Their clutches were a severe hit-or-miss deal.

I'm remembering back when my brother was racing his '93. He installed a CFDF and it lasted all of a couple months during race season while his multiple ACT 2600's lasted for seasons at a time each.

I think it's more personal preference, but my personal preference (now) is that I'm staying away from the single disks as much as I can :) .

Marcus

[JSMCPN]

CFDFX pix for those interested...
It's a Carbon/Metallic friction material

http://home.comcast.net/~md303/pix/1.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~md303/pix/2.JPG

[BlueVelocity]

:eek: :eek: :eek: Oh man, a 6 puck...:D

[JSMCPN]

It WILL make some chatter and noise upon engagement, but I've been assured that it's still a softer engagement than most other 6-pucks. We'll see how it goes! It should be installed by this weekend.

[Rice Killer]

I used a ACT 2900 PP with a street disk and it held 360WHP with no problem, dont worry about crankwalk as long as it's a 6bolt, it had no chatter and was great for a daily driver you just need a strong leg. :D