Need help with diagnosis, transfer case,w/video

[deShaneO]

I've been having some clicking sound coming from under the passengers side for a while. The tranny has been swapped, same noise. So I have removed my transfer case.
I watched jacks video-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7DyxXJ42Vpc&feature=channel_page
Very good info
So there is some in and out play from the spline that goes into the transfer case as seen here-
http://www.youtube.com/v/babUqxvWCHg&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0

In the transfer case itself there isn't any back and forth play, side to side,from either the female input side or the propeller back side output shaft.
There is some clicking between the two when engaging. I mean when I turn either shaft there is a bit of play as seen here-
http://www.youtube.com/v/aoe0B5REBHk&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0

This could be all normal, I have never taken one off so I don't know
Also, is this just normal greasiness or does it look like I have a major leak?
http://stgconsulting.net/car/IMAG0370.jpg

Any thoughts gentlemen?
thanks in advance for any help or input!

[Zeppelin]

The noise in your second video from the prop side is not good. There should be no slack whatsoever there. I think the in-out play is normal, the input shaft on my car didn't have anything holding it in place when the xfer case was removed, it is free to slide right out of the transmission at that point. My xfer case wasn't that greasy when I pulled mine, but mine is a '97, so you've had more time to get yours gunked up.

[JackM]

The in and out play is normal. There is a small ball that holds the output shaft in place at the VCU so it moves around. All of them do that.

The clicking you hear are the two gears inside the unit. The spacing between the gears is pretty wide and what you hear is one gear hitting the other on one side of the tooth, and then when you go the other direction it hits the other side. For a factory t-case I would say that is normal too, but if you can turn the shafts easily by hand that usually means the bearing preloads are a little loose which could mean may could be burned up a little. I would pull the end cap off on the cast iron end and look at the tapered rollers on each side of the coupler. The smaller tapered roller bearing is usually the one that is burned up on a lot of them and easy to see.

It should be bone dry all around the trans. Anything wet or greasy looking is a leak.

Your clicking could be CV shaft or wheel bearing. Does it click only when the car is in motion and if so, does the clicking speed follow engine speed or vehicle (MPH) speed?

Jack

[deShaneO]

The in and out play is normal. There is a small ball that holds the output shaft in place at the VCU so it moves around. All of them do that.

The clicking you hear are the two gears inside the unit. The spacing between the gears is pretty wide and what you hear is one gear hitting the other on one side of the tooth, and then when you go the other direction it hits the other side. For a factory t-case I would say that is normal too, but if you can turn the shafts easily by hand that usually means the bearing preloads are a little loose which could mean may could be burned up a little. I would pull the end cap off on the cast iron end and look at the tapered rollers on each side of the coupler. The smaller tapered roller bearing is usually the one that is burned up on a lot of them and easy to see.

It should be bone dry all around the trans. Anything wet or greasy looking is a leak.

Your clicking could be CV shaft or wheel bearing. Does it click only when the car is in motion and if so, does the clicking speed follow engine speed or vehicle (MPH) speed?

Jack

Here's what happened some time ago- Somebody else was driving my car, they lurched it forward then stalled it in gear. It came to an abrupt stop. They did this 3 times. After that the noise was there. The click is wheel rolling dependant and not engine speed associated. , . It's almost like when you used to put cards in your spokes as a kid.
I jacked up the car on all fours and spun the pass. side wheel. I didn't hear any clicking... I can roll the car backwards without the engine on and hear it. It gets louder and faster as the car rolls faster.. Wheel bearings seem to click once a rotation or crunch, this is more like a click, click, click constant from the time the wheels starts to roll, that's why I was going this direction.
Here's a shot of the gears-
http://stgconsulting.net/car/IMAG0372.jpg
http://stgconsulting.net/car/IMAG0371.jpg
I'll try to get the cap off and take a pic. The transfer case might be absolutely fine though. Thanks for the quick reply Jack and Mark..!

[deShaneO]

I just looked I've brought this up before and I think most people were telling me to look at CV shaft. I'm dumb, sorry guys for posting this again.
Well tell me this to get to that, CV shaft, did I have to remove the transfer case :)?
I don't want this to be a total waste...lol
"making my own life harder than it needs to be since 1974"

[Cloud]

I was going to say... clicking, first thing to check is shafts, every time! ;)

[drcustom]

CV isn't bad to get at. If the bolts come off easily you should be in an out in less than an hour.

If it is the CV, I'd recommend just getting a replacement from Napa or Checker or some place like that. Call around - you should be able to get the whole axle for around $70.

[drcustom]

I don't want this to be a total waste...lol
"making my own life harder than it needs to be since 1974"


That last comment was pretty funny.

I wouldn't say it was a waste.

I used to look at times like this when I spent money/time I didn't need to as a bad thing. It's always frustrating to break something or buy parts you don't need or do work that isn't necessary. However, you've learned more about your car, and it doesn't sound like it really cost you anything. Even if it did cost you something, how much would it have cost to become educated to fix your car? A lot more I'm sure - AND you'd still need to take the time to learn it.

If nothing else, consider this a cheap lesson in how your transfercase should be working and how to diagnose a clicking sound.

[deShaneO]

That last comment was pretty funny.

I wouldn't say it was a waste.

I used to look at times like this when I spent money/time I didn't need to as a bad thing. It's always frustrating to break something or buy parts you don't need or do work that isn't necessary. However, you've learned more about your car, and it doesn't sound like it really cost you anything. Even if it did cost you something, how much would it have cost to become educated to fix your car? A lot more I'm sure - AND you'd still need to take the time to learn it.

If nothing else, consider this a cheap lesson in how your transfercase should be working and how to diagnose a clicking sound.

True, true. It looks like it'll be easier to put in my new Knock sensor now that it's out. I was surprised how easy it was to remove the transfer case and now I can do a fluid change easy. I was also thinking, since it's out, maybe send it to Jack for his special refreshing/rebuilding...

[JackM]

If your t-case coupler splines look excellent and the small bearing at the end of the coupler looks good I wouldn't spend the money to have me replace all of those parts.

Jack