How to... Remove lower control arm stud

[HisandHerTurbo]

K, think I have the wording correct. Here is a pic of what I am trying to beat the heck out. It broke off to begin with, now I am trying to take it apart, so I can find a replacement. Who has had to take this out and knows what I am supposed to do? I assumed tap-ity tap tap, but nope. Beat harder?

TY
JOE

[drcustom]

It's the ball joint. The entire replacement arm isn't all that expensive.

You'll need a pickle fork. You can rent them or buy them for cheap. You'll wedge it on the underside of that joint and hit it with a hammer. The ball joint will pop out.

[HisandHerTurbo]

? K, I'm still confused. I have a picture of a new straight lower control arm (see attach) and it seems like the "stud" would just slide into place and bolt down (22mm). So you would assume that the old one would do just the opposite.

[fhudsonjr]

I am not at all knowledgeable about 1g's let alone 2g's, but I do know some cars have the ball joint held in by a keeper ring.

How about you "udder" guys?

[fhudsonjr]

Couldn't edit. The other choice is have it pressed out.

[HisandHerTurbo]

Forgot the picture of a new straight lower control arm.

[HisandHerTurbo]

K, took another picture of the remaining piece I am trying to get out. Which looks like it "should" just fall out. If it needs a special "pry" type tool, or pressed out, how do I get the new one in?

TY
JOE

[HisandHerTurbo]

Forgot attachment AGAIN!

[Mirage]

1. Grab big freakin hammer.

2. Pound on steering knuckle where that stud goes through it.

3. Pound until said balljoint falls out of knuckle.

Usually only about 2-3 good whacks will let it loose.

Marcus

[Wazzelby]

You can try and heat it up a bit too. But yeah, just don't try and hit it on the top of the bolt, it will mushroom like crazy, ask me how I know...
But like Marcus said, big hammer and whack the hell out of it.

[BogusSVO]

The BFH method will work on the busted ball joint, start the old nut on the top of the stud, so the top of the nut is flush with the top of the stud. and whack it with a Big Freakin Hammer.. once it pops loose just remove the nut and the stud will fall out.

The reason it will not just fall ont at this point, is the ball joint stud is a tapered press fit into the knuckle.

[HisandHerTurbo]

2 more questions.............. so, if I find one at a junk yard and do the same thing, can I even use it again? And how in the heck will I be able to get the new one in?

TY
JOE

[BlueVelocity]

You mean the ball joint? Just buy a new one of those, but the arm itself should be reusable. (unless it's cracked or bent, etc.)

[BogusSVO]

well it will press in when you install the new ball joint and torque in the nut, it will just stop when it is seated.

you want to get a junk yard ball joint? to me thats one of the parts that should be bought new.. it not fun when one pops apart when your rollin down the road.....

[BogusSVO]

in the pic of the new control are.. it has new ball joints in them.

[Mirage]

Word of caution when pounding on the arm and the balljoint stud.

Do NOT pound directly on the threads (nut or no nut). There is still a very good chance that the threads can be ruined enough to make the lower control arm unusable. The ball joint shaft, thread and taper material is actually very soft and easily deformed. I've ruined axles doing exactly what bogus posted.

You will not damage either arm or the knuckle if you follow the procedure I posted above. The new arm will fit into place just as easily as the old one will fall out.

Marcus

[Mirage]

Lack of edit button blows...

Need to add.

Be cautioned that there are two different lower lateral control arms available throught the years.

1995 model year and the 1996+ model year control arms.

The balljoint is built into the arm itself and cannot be replaced separately. There is also a safety recall out on these arms due to an inferior dresign.

New arms from the dealer are less than $50 by what I remember.

1995 model years are their own animal and have some funky situation with replacement parts not being available separately. Needing to buy the knuckle, radius rod and lateral arm as a package. Or something along those lines.

Marcus

[fhudsonjr]

Maybe I'm just weak or don't have a big enough hammer, but I've never been able to get one out by pounding the hack on it or as some suggest on the side of the arm.
Pickle fork works great as some one above suggested.

Also if you do just the ball joint, when you tighten the nut on top to install a new ball joint be sure to put a jack under the ball joint and then compress the control arm by jacking up the arm a bit.
If you don't the ball joint stud will just spin and you'll never get it torqued down.

[nefkntym]

Word of caution when pounding on the arm and the balljoint stud.

Do NOT pound directly on the threads (nut or no nut). There is still a very good chance that the threads can be ruined enough to make the lower control arm unusable. The ball joint shaft, thread and taper material is actually very soft and easily deformed. I've ruined axles doing exactly what bogus posted.

You will not damage either arm or the knuckle if you follow the procedure I posted above. The new arm will fit into place just as easily as the old one will fall out.

Marcus

Did the axles sound like metal on metal?

[v413nc3]

The 1995's have to be purchased together because they have a different castor setup than 96-99 Marcus. That's why they sell them all together.

Do *NOT* get a used replacement. These are the balljoints from the infamous recall. They go bad and fall out of the LCA much like yours just did Joe. Get a brand new factory replacement or you will regret it. And with the wife driving the DSM these days you definately do not want to take that risk.

[HisandHerTurbo]

I didn't get the old one old until I "borrowed" a pickle fork from Sears........ I Banged, beat, the heck outta it on top, side all over, only the pickle fork got the old/bad one out. I did go factory replacement for $40 even :), So this weekend it'll go back together.

TY Everyone!!!

[scooby]

I did go factory replacement for $40 even :)



Dang, what a deal! :D

[HisandHerTurbo]

Yeah it was, met this really great cool guy for the first time and he hooked me up real good!!!! NOW, I need to see if his furnace friend can too..........lol

JOE

[HisandHerTurbo]

UGGGGGGGGGGGGH! K, finally decided to try and finish/fix this, of course ANOTHER PROBLEM, Now I can't get the nut to tighten down. The ball joint just keeps spinning and spining. I have tried no pressure from a jack under it, I have tried a little, I have tried it to a point where it's even lifting the car. I have tried it with the other 2 points in place, not in place........... what in the heck is the trick????????????

TY
JOE

[HisandHerTurbo]

Maybe I'm just weak or don't have a big enough hammer, but I've never been able to get one out by pounding the hack on it or as some suggest on the side of the arm.
Pickle fork works great as some one above suggested.

Also if you do just the ball joint, when you tighten the nut on top to install a new ball joint be sure to put a jack under the ball joint and then compress the control arm by jacking up the arm a bit.
If you don't the ball joint stud will just spin and you'll never get it torqued down.

As stated earlier............. what if it spins and spins no matter how much or little you jack

TY
JOE

[Overkill]

Impact wrench

[v413nc3]

An impact is definately the way to go if using a jack does not work.

[fhudsonjr]

Dadgum, those 2 guys are smart!