FP HTA DSM86 or Billet S366 ETT T3 .70ar

[HisandHerTurbo]

I am torn between 2 turbo set ups........ Here are my options

1) FP HTA DSM86, FP Race manifold, FP 2.5" O2 housing, All new, all from FP

OR

2) Billet S366 ETT T3 .70ar, USED PR T3 Tubular Mani (I would have to find a way to weld my 38mm V Band on, cause it has the 44mm on it), PR 3" V band to DSM O2

Which would you choose and why? personally experiences? Cost doesn't matter, they both are almost the exact same.

Your going to ask what my goals are, they both fit.... Looking for the most power, reliable. Just tell me which is better/worse in what ways.

TY
JOE

[prophecymiller]

I always like turbo comparison threads, so I'll give it a try:)

There seems to be no information on the DSM86 turbo, so I am just assuming it has the regular 35r turbine wheel, which is 68mm. With probably some huge HTA compressor attached...I'm personally not a big fan of small hotsides such as the bolt-on unit with a "small" turbine wheel, just based on dyno charts I've seen. Unless you are concerned with lag of course...

I didn't realize there is a billet version of the S366? Either way, I have read that Bullseye machines the turbines of the Borg Warners down a bit...If you take a look HERE (http://www.full-race.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=214_1167&products_id=1908), you will notice the turbine is 79mm, whereas the Bullseye S366 is only 76mm HERE (http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=21870&cat=1592&page=1). You will also notice the S300sx will make over 800hp vs. 750 for the S366.

Knowing this, either the S366 or the S300sx has a much larger turbine wheel than the DSM86...which may produce a better VE and thus more power(there is a thread on here where turbine exhaust flow is discussed and can make absurd differences in power at the same boost). I'm sure the FP setup will spool faster, but I would say the BW will make a good bit more power.

Another thing I am not a fan of is taking a 35r turbine and using a much larger compressor which is what it looks like. I'm no turbo expert, but I think generally you want a properly matched compressor as the turbine will have a hard time producing the power the compressor needs.

Why are these two setups similarly priced? Is it due to the PR manifold?(I would think the FP setup should be more)

I do like the fact the FP setup is new of course, bolts right on and works well. I don't like the small turbine housing(although the .70 A/R T3 on the BW may not be much better).

If you are in the market for a 2k$+ setup, what about going with the S300sx 91/79 with a JMF true twinscroll manifold? You would then need a couple wastegates and pay an exhaust shop to make you a downpipe...the completed setup would cost ~2500$ and would easily have a broader power band with more top end than the bolt-on setup.

[HisandHerTurbo]

Yeah, I am pretty fimiliar with all the points you mentioned........Price, yeah, one is a great deal, one is a good deal, and the used PR manifold helps or the bullseye would be alot more expensive........ Curt brown made crazy discusting power with the DSM86....... but then again, he makes wagon's go fast.

I guess I will wait to see what PR has to say about my email, and also FP, then go that way.....

[prophecymiller]

Curt brown made crazy discusting power with the DSM86....... but then again, he makes wagon's go fast......

I don't even like to factor in Curt's results as they are typically better than anyone else can even dream about;) He obviously knows how to extract the power out of a small turbine and housing, which many others can't reproduce.

Here in the real world(not Curt Brown Fantasy Island:p) if you want to make good power easily, I would stick to a large turbine and housing...What kind of power are you after by the way? How much do you care about spool? I am assuming you mostly care about top end as this will be a drag machine? In that case, there are better options than either of your choices, although it sounds like you may have found a good deal on them, so your mind may be set....Either way, take a look at THIS (http://codsm.org/forums/showthread.php?t=5952) thread where some results are of a slightly smaller BW setup that is quite basic...you will notice that full boost is achieved by 4500rpm and look at that torque! I've seen 1000hp setups make less torque. As you can see, he is using a 1.0 A/R divided housing, which I think is where all the power is coming from...to my surprise though, the setup still spools very well for such a large hotside.

If I was in the market for a relatively all-out drag setup, I would be most discriminating about the hotside of the turbo as it seems that is where the easiest power is made...I would probably be looking at an S400 series as here at altitude, you will be able to make really good power with a turbo that size relatively easily. But at that point, you may find the next weakest link in your drivetrain:)

And as far as my vote on which setup to go with just to reiterate- I would choose the BW setup for a few reasons:

I like that it is T3, larger A/R, with a larger turbine that is more properly matched to a larger compressor.

I like the equal length manifold- think better VE/less reversion vs. the FP manifold.

I don't see how you couldn't make more power with the BW setup, and as long as your oiling and CBV are functioning correctly, you shouldn't have any reliability issues like the last one. Make sure you use a large oil return...I would even make a custom one as -10AN seems to be a little small for those.

[HisandHerTurbo]

I already did an 11.0 @ 128 with a 7yr old USED AGP RS60, so, I am looking for mid 10's, 40psi, and 600 with the next turbo. Hot side wise, they actually are both the "same"......... The custom FP housing flows like .70ar. It does have the "small" DSM inlet, but with the custom casting, and larger outlet, it flows like a T3 .70. Even though the "wheel" is the exact same as the .82 found in the T3. So it's not as bad as most "bolt ups" And if you price out the list of stuff I mentioned, The 2 deals I have before me are GREAT that's why I am loooking at them 2. Another thing I am concidering is the reliability. Ever hear WTH did my FP turbo blow up? Not usually, but I do see many threads about either BW's or Bullseye's dying for what ever reason...... I had a DSM S362 and that last 2 months before the shaft just snapped on me, first was blammed on oil starvation (from the OFH), then said it was cause I overspun it trying to make too much power with the lil (.55ar) hotside. So, I am afraid to spend almost 2k on a setup and have a bullseye fail again for another excuse.......... FP says....... go for it, try to overspin it.......

[prophecymiller]

Another thing I am concidering is the reliability. Ever hear WTH did my FP turbo blow up? Not usually, but I do see many threads about either BW's or Bullseye's dying for what ever reason

I would have to say FP turbos are mostly BB, in which case are less likely to be installed with the improper oiling, as they aren't as "sensitive" of an install. There really is no concern of oil return with a BB turbo as they don't use much to begin with. FP didn't have such a good record either back before their turbos were mostly BB units...

I will stand by the opinion that 95% of the time people have failures from aftermarket JB turbos, it's due to improper installation(a turbo can't survive no matter how well it's built if it isn't provided with exactly what it needs). These turbo companies get bad reputations for having poor quality units due to this...take PTE for example!(on a side note I run a "crap" turbo, but I believe it's installed properly and has over 5k miles of quite hard driving...the turbo is AWESOME as far as I'm concerned and is just as tight now as the day I bought it). There is certainly nothing wrong with the quality of a BW turbo vs. an FP turbo. If anything, BW turbos are used on many production vehicles so they will have to have excellent QC, probably better than the almighty FP:p As an anecdote, how often do you hear of stock vehicles with JB turbos failing? Not very often;)

At this point though, I would probably just stick with the FP setup...You know it will work and work well for many miles and has a proven background as everyone loves to say. You won't have to worry about how you oil it, and it's a well laid out package. I am mostly just nitpicking here as either setup will be incredible I'm sure:cool:

Another thing the FP setup has going for it is resale value...if you choose to upgrade in the future, there will be no probem selling the turbo as they are in high demand and retain their value quite well.

Good discussion by the way...I really do enjoy writing "books" on my opinions of various turbos as if you couldn't tell LOL:D No one else has ANYTHING to add???

[89FWD]

How about one of these with a new manifold? If I had a full size DSM, I'd go with one for sure.

http://diesel-plus.com/dd_turbo.cfm?npid=10220

[prophecymiller]

^^^That looks like a great unit! I'd like to find out more...although I do remember someone bringing up the K29 series in one of the EFR discussion threads on EvoM I believe, where Geoff from Full-Race commented that the technology was older than the current BW ETT stuff. Maybe they have recently updated the design however???

[89FWD]

That's kind of a funny thing you bring up. As far as I can tell the wheels haven't changed a whole lot. The PR's have definitely gone higher with some nice add-ons to boot. I've been looking at the 83/74 EFR on a stroker motor, but the big reason for me is fitment not flow. Man, you can't argue with the compressor map. It just says love me...

The way I look at is, if doesn't work. I'll put it on my VG30ET and spank some more ass while I'm out there.:)

[HisandHerTurbo]

Good point on the resale value........ My last DSM S362 blew up after 2 months, and it appeared because of overspinning........ I dunno, now I'm more confused, I guess I will see who puts what on the table (still waiting on a responce back from PR on 2 parts).

[biglady112]

I would choose BW hand down any day. You need to shop around. We found BW prices HUNDREDS of dollars cheaper than you guys are talking about. We found our 66mm borg warner for under 600 bucks locally.

I have not, nor will I ever purchase a forced performance turbo. I cannot bring myself to be a Fp nutrider. I would rather "cost" myself power by running a borg warner or holset turbo. After learning what I have about turbos and oem applications, I will never pay for a "performance" turbo again.

T3 and T4 turbos can be had for so cheap, provide much more potential for growth and power, there is no reason not to go big(ger).

Larger turbines are the key here like Steve said.

[HisandHerTurbo]

I would choose BW hand down any day. You need to shop around. We found BW prices HUNDREDS of dollars cheaper than you guys are talking about. We found our 66mm borg warner for under 600 bucks locally.

I have not, nor will I ever purchase a forced performance turbo. I cannot bring myself to be a Fp nutrider. I would rather "cost" myself power by running a borg warner or holset turbo. After learning what I have about turbos and oem applications, I will never pay for a "performance" turbo again.

T3 and T4 turbos can be had for so cheap, provide much more potential for growth and power, there is no reason not to go big(ger).

Larger turbines are the key here like Steve said.

I will buy you one if you can find a Billet S366 for cheaper then I found........ lol, NEW, not used.......... Yeah, I was going to go with the bullseye too easy, it was just so damn hard to find a good priced T3 mani, and then find the O2 I need so I could still run my exhaust......... I DUNNO WHAT TO DO GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR

[prophecymiller]

Have you looked at the ERL T3- cast SS manifold? They are something like 550$ new.

As far as the O2 housing, what about having an exhaust shop make you a custom piece?

I also wouldn't be too worried about the turbo having a billet wheel...they are nice, but the regular ETT BW wheels are great to begin with and work very well...how much extra is it for the billet option?

[HisandHerTurbo]

Have you looked at the ERL T3- cast SS manifold? They are something like 550$ new.

As far as the O2 housing, what about having an exhaust shop make you a custom piece?

I also wouldn't be too worried about the turbo having a billet wheel...they are nice, but the regular ETT BW wheels are great to begin with and work very well...how much extra is it for the billet option?

I looked at the ERL T3, but the WG option is the wrong size (I have a MV-S) and no I am not going to buy another WG..... I like the 38mm v Band. And the ERL is close to 600 (that's the same price as a used tubular, so no difference in price).
And I am not about to goto an exhause shop and say custom weld my NO CAT exhaust by removing the DP and cuting off the DSM flange, weling a 3" piece with a 3" v band etc etc etc........ I am sure the cost would be stupid high......

[HisandHerTurbo]

Have you looked at the ERL T3- cast SS manifold? They are something like 550$ new.

As far as the O2 housing, what about having an exhaust shop make you a custom piece?

I also wouldn't be too worried about the turbo having a billet wheel...they are nice, but the regular ETT BW wheels are great to begin with and work very well...how much extra is it for the billet option?

OH, the billet adds $200........ and if I do go that route, I will definatly get the billet, no choice there.

[biglady112]

There are hundereds, if not thousands of metal workers in colorado that can do any welding or fabbing for you. I would not use and exhuast shop as they generally only do thick, ugly MIG welds. A lot of things we do end up TIG'ed. Not to say we don't use our exhuast guy every now and again, but we either do it all ourselves now, or tack it together and take it to our guy.

Why do people make such a big deal about this billet stuff? It has been around for years. Yea some of the new stuff is a superior design and up to date technology. But, I have a billet wheel on my holset, but it is by no means anything special or helps me make any more power. It is like the difference from cast or stamped connecting rods to forged rods. Just made a little better.

My question is this, have you ever seen in person, or even heard of a cast compressor wheel exploding or blowing apart from anything other than a foreign object(eating or injesting something)? My guess is no, so why is it a big deal to have a billet wheel?

I can find turbos all day for cheap. One thing I refuse and steer my friends away from is paying for a name however. Like I said above, A LOT of these turbos out there are nothing more than factory turbos for other applications. Sure FP, Bullseye, Sound Performance and any place like that may tinker and swap some things, but OEM turbos are where these things come from, and most OEM turbos will produce nasty numbers and results on a DSM. Case in point, the GT42.

And the wastegate is no big deal. The cool part about metal is you can shape it and mold it however you want. You are only limited by your imagination. So don't be afraid of cheap or even expensive manifolds. Hell, even cast is a good option. The ERL, Turbonetics or Treadstone. All will get you your 10 second pass.

[HisandHerTurbo]

There are hundereds, if not thousands of metal workers in colorado that can do any welding or fabbing for you. I would not use and exhuast shop as they generally only do thick, ugly MIG welds. A lot of things we do end up TIG'ed. Not to say we don't use our exhuast guy every now and again, but we either do it all ourselves now, or tack it together and take it to our guy.

Why do people make such a big deal about this billet stuff? It has been around for years. Yea some of the new stuff is a superior design and up to date technology. But, I have a billet wheel on my holset, but it is by no means anything special or helps me make any more power. It is like the difference from cast or stamped connecting rods to forged rods. Just made a little better.

My question is this, have you ever seen in person, or even heard of a cast compressor wheel exploding or blowing apart from anything other than a foreign object(eating or injesting something)? My guess is no, so why is it a big deal to have a billet wheel?

I can find turbos all day for cheap. One thing I refuse and steer my friends away from is paying for a name however. Like I said above, A LOT of these turbos out there are nothing more than factory turbos for other applications. Sure FP, Bullseye, Sound Performance and any place like that may tinker and swap some things, but OEM turbos are where these things come from, and most OEM turbos will produce nasty numbers and results on a DSM. Case in point, the GT42.

And the wastegate is no big deal. The cool part about metal is you can shape it and mold it however you want. You are only limited by your imagination. So don't be afraid of cheap or even expensive manifolds. Hell, even cast is a good option. The ERL, Turbonetics or Treadstone. All will get you your 10 second pass.

Not just looking for a "10 sec pass" that was already "almost" done with my chitty internally gated, 8yo turbo @ 30psi. I'm looking for a "good" mid 10sec, one that I don't have to max the turbo out, and it's in it's effinciency range.
Not affraid/worried about different manifolds, except for the Turbonetics your talking $550+ and I ain't rockefella! So, that is a huge concideration.
The WG is a big deal, I am not spending another $150 to just get bigger so it fits.....not only is that more money, I don't want the 44 I want the 38 (I have). Now, if you meant getting the v band cut/welded...... it is a big deal, I DON'T CUT/WELD.......... have you ever seen what "normal" people are charged at shops for what's simple to you? guarentee I'd be charged 60-100 for that change........
Find turbo's for cheap, in my case the turbos aren't what's killing me and adding up........ it's the other stuff!!!!
Billet isn't for "strength" it's for lighter!!!! (according to bullseye).
Lastly, like you said, yup they're are a lot of people that can weld, etc etc, IT AIN'T FREE!!!!!! Not only that, I don't "know" any.......
I am not sure what point you were making....... but it wasn't clear........ were you saying go away from both and get something else???????? if so, show me something else that would be just as good, and give me every piece I need, for under 2k and I will concidere it!!!

[biglady112]

There is a treadstone knock off turbonetics on 4g61t.org right now brand new for $150 shipped.

My vote is a NON-billet borg warner. Like I said, found the equivilant of a S366 for under $600 locally.

People make metal work out to be some super expensive process. Maybe make a few calls around to fab shops and see what they have to say. I went and bought a super cheap MIG welder,a chop saw and a drill press. If I can't handle anything, I at least get it more or less made and put together, and have someone finish the welding if it needs to be TIG welded.

Don't be afraid to explore your options. Shoot an ebay T3 manifold, rewelded/modified/braced and even some off the shelf T3 o2 housings are not any more, if not less than all the FP bolt on stuff or anyone else's bolt on stuff.

To this day I don't understand why everyone is so afraid of metal work, T# or T4 turbos. Everyone one else in the turbo performance world is on board, or their cars come factory with those turbo footprints.

I am not even going to comment on the wastegate. Tial is not the end all, that is all I have to say.

A 66mm Borg Warner will put your car with your driving skills well into the 10's if not knocking on the 9 second door. You can down play your AGP turbo all you want, it was more driver than anything. You know that as well as I do.

Give me a $2,000-2,500 turbo budget and I could make magic happen. I could get a rediculous turbo, some fuel stuff and who knows what else. Hearing that kind of money being spent makes my ears bleed. I am just looking out for you here. Do some more research and ask around. You would be suprised how many people will help, and not ask for your children and dogs for payment.

My vote-
Borg Warner
Full T3 or T4 setup
And this you may not compromise on, but maybe even think of another type of exhaust other than a full one. Maybe side exit, fender exit, under the car, out the side under a door or what ever. Not sure how el paso county is with emissions, but if they are lax, or don't have them, maybe you could explore options there. May open the turbo design up a little more.

[HisandHerTurbo]

There is a treadstone knock off turbonetics on 4g61t.org right now brand new for $150 shipped.

I am not willing to do that much of a chance


My vote is a NON-billet borg warner. Like I said, found the equivilant of a S366 for under $600 locally.
"equivilant"? And I could get a brand new bullseye for only a little more with a warrenty

People make metal work out to be some super expensive process. Maybe make a few calls around to fab shops and see what they have to say. I went and bought a super cheap MIG welder,a chop saw and a drill press. If I can't handle anything, I at least get it more or less made and put together, and have someone finish the welding if it needs to be TIG welded.

it is expensive...... you already have the welder/chop saw,etc etc, and shops do/did quote 80-100(s)/hr


Don't be afraid to explore your options. Shoot an ebay T3 manifold, rewelded/modified/braced and even some off the shelf T3 o2 housings are not any more, if not less than all the FP bolt on stuff or anyone else's bolt on stuff.

$175 FP Race manifold........and once again, you add in reweld, modify...... I CAN'T DO THAT, OR BUY THE STUFF TO DO IT, And a shop would want $100


To this day I don't understand why everyone is so afraid of metal work, T# or T4 turbos. Everyone one else in the turbo performance world is on board, or their cars come factory with those turbo footprints.

not afraid of metal work, you know me, I ain't a dumby, but 2 things, never needed to before, so I haven't tried it, and buying the stuff and learning now, isn't in the money


I am not even going to comment on the wastegate. Tial is not the end all, that is all I have to say.

ok, tial is not the end all....... BUT IT'S WHAT I ALREADY BOUGHT, SO WHY BUY SOMETHING ELSE AGAIN


A 66mm Borg Warner will put your car with your driving skills well into the 10's if not knocking on the 9 second door. You can down play your AGP turbo all you want, it was more driver than anything. You know that as well as I do.

true true...... a 366 would do me awesom...... THATS WHY I WAS LOOKING AT IT!!! but then finding the mani/o2 was killing me!
And I recently found out......AGP (used to work at/for FP)


Give me a $2,000-2,500 turbo budget and I could make magic happen. I could get a rediculous turbo, some fuel stuff and who knows what else. Hearing that kind of money being spent makes my ears bleed. I am just looking out for you here. Do some more research and ask around. You would be suprised how many people will help, and not ask for your children and dogs for payment.

Either setup I am UNDER 2k COMPLETE!!!


My vote-
Borg Warner
Full T3 or T4 setup

i THINK the right 366 set up would ultimatly outperform the FP, HOWEVER without a good tubular mani,I think the FP setup would make more power.......and the FP is cheaper even with a USED $600 tubular. Another plus with the FP is if I would want to go T3 I just pay $250 and get a new housing and I have a 3586 with T3 .86ar


And this you may not compromise on, but maybe even think of another type of exhaust other than a full one. Maybe side exit, fender exit, under the car, out the side under a door or what ever. Not sure how el paso county is with emissions, but if they are lax, or don't have them, maybe you could explore options there. May open the turbo design up a little more.

I do drive this all the time, and almost all winter........ so I am not going to do that exhaust option...........

[biglady112]

Let me tell you this. All the S362, 366, 374, 375 numbers are all Bullseye bull****.

The turbo I am talking about is a true blue off the shelf Borg Warner 300SX3. AKA a S366. With a warranty. BRAND NEW.

Those tools I mentioned I bought as an invesetment to my garage and car life. I have had the press and chop saw only 1 and 3 months. The welder I have used three times and owned it for 6 months. We used it non-stop this last fall at the salt flats. Did a tremendous amount of repair on a streamliner.

The treadstone is not inferior at all. It is just not rediculously priced like the turbonetics.

Look around, people sell those tubular darkstar, dnp, punishment and what not manifolds all the time. For great prices. Heck, punishment takes an ebay one, does the work for you, and sells it for what like $300 or 400.

I am not sure if you wastegate is the new vband one, or the bolt on one, but either way, flanges can be had as low as $10 in mild steel and $20 for stainless. Locally at that.

Not sure why the winter would affect the exhaust, just trying to open your eyes.

Sounds like you talked yourself into bolt on stuff and FP stuff long before you asked around. Go for it man.

And did you not buy your 362 used? That very well could have been one of the issues. It may have had problems or been damaged before you got it.

[HisandHerTurbo]

Let me tell you this. All the S362, 366, 374, 375 numbers are all Bullseye bull****.

The turbo I am talking about is a true blue off the shelf Borg Warner 300SX3. AKA a S366. With a warranty. BRAND NEW.

ok, so a lil cheaper...... what "T" and ar?


Those tools I mentioned I bought as an invesetment to my garage and car life. I have had the press and chop saw only 1 and 3 months. The welder I have used three times and owned it for 6 months. We used it non-stop this last fall at the salt flats. Did a tremendous amount of repair on a streamliner.

yes, good smart investment........ I just don't have the money for that investment right now, or else it comes out of the turbo setup I am getting


The treadstone is not inferior at all. It is just not rediculously priced like the turbonetics.

Look around, people sell those tubular darkstar, dnp, punishment and what not manifolds all the time. For great prices. Heck, punishment takes an ebay one, does the work for you, and sells it for what like $300 or 400.

I did look around...... for almost 2 months, and only found 1 T3 with WG option.... that I would be willing to buy, like I said, if I get a chitty one, the power loss would be great, and not worth it...... and PR's "good" one is over$900 or $250(ish) for the cheap one.....

I am not sure if you wastegate is the new vband one, or the bolt on one, but either way, flanges can be had as low as $10 in mild steel and $20 for stainless. Locally at that.
Ihave the new vband.......and have flanges, problem is PAYING SOMEONE TO DO THE WORK!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Not sure why the winter would affect the exhaust, just trying to open your eyes.
Caues driving with an exhaust like that is illegal and I drive it all the time, and that would attract way too much attention

Sounds like you talked yourself into bolt on stuff and FP stuff long before you asked around. Go for it man.

actually the fp idead just came to mind about a week ago, for almost 2 months i was dead set on the complete 366 setup...... just thought about the fp recently seeing how expensive the tubular mani's were and thoughht something bolt on would be cheaper


And did you not buy your 362 used? That very well could have been one of the issues. It may have had problems or been damaged before you got it.

yes, I did buy the 362 used..... I "thought" it was in good shape, no play seemed really good, I honestly think I broke it, trying to work it toooooo hard with the restrictive dsm .55ar........ I was very excited to get the 366, but after the nightmare of finding a good tubular or used one...... no luck, and I do not want a junk mani, I can't fix cracks or add brackets and if I was to pay someone to do it...... why not just buy the right one?....... I CAN'T DO THE WORK, I AM NOT GOING TO START RIGHT NOW TRYING TO....... AND OBVIOUSLY FOR A BUSINESS TO STAY A BUSINESS, THEY HAVE TO CHARGE FOR WORK, SO YEAH, IT'S HRS OF WORK TO WELD EITHER CUSTOM O2's or make my exhaust custom fit...........

[biglady112]

We play in T4 land now. But They did have some options in T3. The particular one we bought was T4 though.

We drive around with an exhaust sticking out of the hood and fender. No issues there. But, we just flat out disregard the law.

But it sounds like you are looking for the "easiest" route. Decent price, no fab work, mostly bolt together. I would look into the 64-67mm range regardless. Will make your car haul ass.

Good luck. You asked, I recommended. In the end you will do just like I would. What ever the hell you want. Its your money and your car, do what makes you happy and don't look back.

Good luck this year and lets see some sick times. Would be nice to see you chase Marcus' grey talon and Lucas' evo.

[HisandHerTurbo]

We play in T4 land now. But They did have some options in T3. The particular one we bought was T4 though.

We drive around with an exhaust sticking out of the hood and fender. No issues there. But, we just flat out disregard the law.

But it sounds like you are looking for the "easiest" route. Decent price, no fab work, mostly bolt together. I would look into the 64-67mm range regardless. Will make your car haul ass.

Good luck. You asked, I recommended. In the end you will do just like I would. What ever the hell you want. Its your money and your car, do what makes you happy and don't look back.

Good luck this year and lets see some sick times. Would be nice to see you chase Marcus' grey talon and Lucas' evo.

I don't wanna run much (if any) faster then mid 10's...... the maintaining of that is tooooooooooooooo expensive.
I don't want fab work, cause well, I can't do it, and the cost to pay someone else to do it, would be too much.
I do finally have the piping to put a 6 point in, just have to get it done........once again, pay someone tooooooooooooooooooooooo much money cause I don't know how to weld, or the equipment.

So, when's the next BBQ?...... Igotta get out

[biglady112]

We can have one any time. Maybe I could talk to the little lady and see if we can do something when the weather is better. Its been a while, would be nice to have a laid back get together.

[prophecymiller]

Sounds like Biglady has a good deal on them locally, but HERE (http://dsmlink.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55762) is a guy selling a 66mm true BW for 585$....throw in a new JMF twinscroll manifold for another 1k$ and another wastegate...you would be looking at 250$ budget left for paying to have the wastegates routed/DP work and oil lines.

The FP setup completely bolts right in though right? That is pretty nice if you don't want to have to get custom work done...so there is a good point to the FP setup.

[biglady112]

This is not towards Joe. But, we were able to get two 66mm borg warners with .91a/r divided housings for less than that BRAND NEW. With two different types of compressor hosings. It pays to look around. Never know what you might find close to home.

[prophecymiller]

This is not towards Joe. But, we were able to get two 66mm borg warners with .91a/r divided housings for less than that BRAND NEW.

That's an amazing deal...do they have smaller units for around those prices? Something in the 60mm range? Eventually I would like to upgrade to an HX40, but if I can get a BW for around the same price, that would be awesome:)

And I definitely agree that sourcing parts locally is the way to go...not a big fan of internet shopping if I can keep from it.

[HisandHerTurbo]

Sounds like Biglady has a good deal on them locally, but HERE (http://dsmlink.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55762) is a guy selling a 66mm true BW for 585$....throw in a new JMF twinscroll manifold for another 1k$ and another wastegate...you would be looking at 250$ budget left for paying to have the wastegates routed/DP work and oil lines.

The FP setup completely bolts right in though right? That is pretty nice if you don't want to have to get custom work done...so there is a good point to the FP setup.

Yeah, that's used though........... not looking for used this time, I did buy a DSM S362 used off of link, and it lasted me 2 months.......... I am paying a lil more and have a warrenty.

[biglady112]

Central Motive Power. Ask for Patrick.

Still won't beat a price of a used hx40 though.

[HisandHerTurbo]

What are you saying he has? And I don't think the HX40 is the same power level of the 2 I am looking at (I even chose the S362 over a 40).
Are you saying he has something equal to or greater then the 2 I am looking at? if so, maybe I will call, but the price I am being offered for the ones I am talking about is so good, I don't think it can be beat. Buying new that is.

[biglady112]

The HX40 is directed towards Steve.

Call patrick and see what he can get you and what prices. They carry garrett and borg warner stuff. They use borg warner part numbers, but if you describe what you want, he can help. The s3xx numbers are bullseye power specific.

[Racah15]

Hey biglady112: All this talk of big turbo and cheap price makes me drool. Joe know's I want to join on the 500hp bandwagon hopefully soon, and no matter what, for the life of me... cannot find a good, cheap, new turbo for my goals. Is there any way you can help me find it? I want Joe to see that us "youngins",(I'm 18) can go fast too. Haha

[TerryLiv]

Hey biglady112: All this talk of big turbo and cheap price makes me drool. Joe know's I want to join on the 500hp bandwagon hopefully soon, and no matter what, for the life of me... cannot find a good, cheap, new turbo for my goals. Is there any way you can help me find it? I want Joe to see that us "youngins",(I'm 18) can go fast too. Haha

I noticed that Joe is a really old guy. He is one month younger than my son.

Terry,

The old fart.

[t_jolt]

The HX40 is directed towards Steve.

Call patrick and see what he can get you and what prices. They carry garrett and borg warner stuff. They use borg warner part numbers, but if you describe what you want, he can help. The s3xx numbers are bullseye power specific.

Plus one for this. Patrick Is a great guy and will help with any questions you have.

Tyrel

[HisandHerTurbo]

I noticed that Joe is a really old guy. He is one month younger than my son.

Terry,

The old fart.

HA HA, yeah, you are the old guy.....

[Racah15]

Haha Joe is old enough to be my father. I'm just saying youngin to imply "Wet behind the ear". I may be 18, but I'd sure like to see another 18yr old accomplish what I've done. Sure there are plenty, but I figure since I am not stuck in the JDM crowd, and don't own a Vtec honda with a CAI, and fart cannon, I'm well ahead for my time.
Haha

[HisandHerTurbo]

I am not old enough to be your father........... older brother maybe, lol, just because I have a daughter older then you doesn't mean anything.

[TerryLiv]

Haha Joe is old enough to be my father. I'm just saying youngin to imply "Wet behind the ear". I may be 18, but I'd sure like to see another 18yr old accomplish what I've done. Sure there are plenty, but I figure since I am not stuck in the JDM crowd, and don't own a Vtec honda with a CAI, and fart cannon, I'm well ahead for my time.
Haha

By the time I was 19 I had build and was racing a tube frame slingshot dragster. This was my second dragster.

[Racah15]

Nice!, I wish I had that kind of background.
Haha but like I said, I'm nothing special, I'm just apart from the JDM crowd, and not stuck in the F&F crap all the teenagers are stuck to these days.
By "accomplishing what I've done" I mean actually followed through with my plans. Every teenager wants to mod/turbo/supercharge the car their parent's gave them. Taurus, or Honda, either way it's all the same. I actually purchase my own car, and did my own mods (With good teachers ofcourse). I don't rice it up, and No shop has seen my car (besides for alignment). And although it may not seem impressive to a guy like you, who has built his own tube frame car, I feel accomplished :)

[burnett03]

I may be 18, but I'd sure like to see another 18yr old accomplish what I've done.

I ran 11's at 18 and made over 500hp to the wheels.. ;) Here i am at 25 trying to do it again.

[Mirage]

I ran 10s when I was 19-20. Age doesn't matter as long as you pay attention to detail and not cut corners for reliability.

Marcus

[HisandHerTurbo]

I ran 10s when I was 19-20. Age doesn't matter as long as you pay attention to detail and not cut corners for reliability.

Marcus

That's not fair, cars weren't fast when I was that young....... lol

[Racah15]

Haha you guys didn't get my point, but I guess it was vague to begin with. Most kids in my highschool own hondas. I only met 1 kid with a dsm who paid $600 for a laser turbo, that I only saw once, and never again. All the kids think that they can mod their car by adding a CAI and exhaust. Some kid told me that my car sucks because it's auto. What I tried to get across is, that this day and age of teenagers who rice out the car mommy bought them (Ie: the kid that told me my car sucks because it was auto), I have more done in my car than what most do. I'm not saying I'm a child prodogy or some stuff like that, FAR FAR from it, I just said I feel proud of my car and its mods, and for only being 18, it's not too shabby. I know everyone here on this forum is probably better than me, and I don't need no proof haha, but in the end, all I wanna show Joe is that us youngins' can run 10 and 11s too. Hehehe

I think he still secretly mocks me about my first run at bandi (17.1 @72) haha