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View Full Version : WTF!!! everythings brand new!!!


evo9mrtt
February 3rd, 2011, 07:17 PM
I just got my car back from having a crap ton of work done. Head gasket, head studs, lifters, valve seals, timing belt, tensioner, tersioner pulley, idler pulley, waterpump, removed the balace shafts, all brand new gaskets for the manifolds and throttle body, ported the manis,o2 housing,and wastegate hole on turbo ect..ect..compatition clutch 0620 unsprung 6 with 2700lb pressure plate and a freshly resurfaced flywheel. I also replaced the stainless clutch line with a brand new one cause my old one had a hole in it somehow. The slave cylender was also replaced with a brand new oem slave. The only thing that wasnt replaced was the master cylender. Tonight i was driving home from work and was about 5 mins from home and sitting at a light. I pushed the clutch pedal in and was about to take off when out of nowhere my pedal went straight to the floor. Has anyone had this problem and might know what the cause was and what might be wrong? My car is parked outside all the time so i havent been able to inspect it yet. Thanks guys and any help would be amazing as my talon is my only means for transportation

Outlaw
February 3rd, 2011, 08:36 PM
Master cylinder. Check for fluid near the master cylinder on both under the hood and under the dash.

evo9mrtt
February 3rd, 2011, 09:00 PM
Hey outlaw! How ya been? I checked inside the cab and by the firewall and there is no fluid to been seen at all. The boot and rod on the inside look bone dry and fine and the firewall and area around the master cylender are spotless as well. The resivor is bone dry though and empty. The new clutch line looks good also. I didnt get a chance to check the slave becasue the ground here is covered in snow.

Dane Becher
February 4th, 2011, 08:15 AM
The clutch pedal flops to the floor because there is no hydraulic pressure to push it back.

No fluid means you have a leak. Should be pretty easy to find if you follow the clutch line from the res. to the slave cyl. Fix the leak, fill the res. with brake fluid, bleed the clutch and you are back on the road.

evo9mrtt
February 5th, 2011, 12:31 PM
So uppon further inspection of my car i found my slave just hanging by the line under the car. The two bolt holes on the slave broke clean off. The bolts are still in the bell housing and all the fluid is gone...i apparently need a new slave. But what caused this one to break the way it did is boggling my mind. Anyone have this happen before?

drcustom
February 5th, 2011, 01:20 PM
Anyone have this happen before?

A heavy pressure plate causes everything in the brake system to be under more stress than it was ever designed for. Combine that with a slave that was overtightened/loose/dropped/flawed from the factory (ultimately stressed in some way) or maybe non-OEM and made of cheaper metals and from that point it doesn't take much to have a broken part.

evo9mrtt
February 5th, 2011, 02:26 PM
The slave was brand new, and was a oem mitsu. I think the extreme cold weather played an big part in its failure. That or maybe had a defect from the factory. Its just hard to believe that it did what it did in only 1k miles. I hope I don't have a restriction or a problem other than it was just coinsadence...sorry about the spelling...the car has never givin me any problems in the past though. The old slaves seals were bad so I replaced it with this unit and it also failed me. Just in another way. Did anyone else have a slave snap like this?

Cloud
February 5th, 2011, 02:43 PM
I would be more inclined to believe something has been installed wrong and the slave is bottoming out so that you are creating extreme pressure. That is something that could cause it to snap off. I would be concerned about the height of the fulcrum ball or some other aspect of the clutch fork engagement.

Dane Becher
February 5th, 2011, 03:19 PM
The two bolt holes on the slave broke clean off. The bolts are still in the bell housing

I'm guessing the bolts got loose and backed out. That resulted in the slave pushing the fork at an akward angle and putting a lot of stress on the slave casting in a way it wasn't designed.

If you still have the old slave, and the piston on the new slave is still OK (and didn't fall out and get lost), just swap the new piston to your old cylinder casting. Be sure to inspect the old cylinder for any damage or gouging on the cylinder walls. I'm sure you could find a rebuildable slave from someone here locally if your old slave casting is gouged or not available. Sure beats buying another new one!

evo9mrtt
February 5th, 2011, 05:00 PM
A lot of people have told me I can use one from autozone and it will work just fine...and for the price and a lifetime warrenty its not bad. I haven't jacked up the car yet to see exactly what happened with the bolts yet. I hope all is well and I can just put in a new slave and bleed the clutch and go back to driving it. My biggest concern is that the bell housing is ok. Iv never seen a slave brake like this. All that's left of it is the cylender. The brakets for the bolts are gone. And my old slave is non exsistant. So going new is pretty much the only way to go. Just sucks cause iv only had it back for 1k miles now. It runs amazing but this is my second slave in like 1500 miles on the car...the first was seals now a busted one. Ohhhiii

evo9mrtt
February 5th, 2011, 05:03 PM
The clutch fork and fulkrom ball are brand new too. Same with the clutch line. I also think my master cylender needs to be adjusted slightly too...iv never adjusted a cluctch or bleed a clutch system either...so generous help if I can get any would be greatly appreciated. I'm used to cable systems on mustangs...

prophecymiller
February 5th, 2011, 09:13 PM
Weird...I would definitely take a look at the motion of the slave after replacement as a helper pushes on the clutch pedal just to make sure the piston is extending correctly.

I also wouldn't get an Autozone unit, but I stick with OEM if it's within a reasonable price. Remember we have a nice discount over at the Havana dealer for being a CoDsm member:)

evo9mrtt
February 6th, 2011, 12:42 AM
Ya I'm planning on going oem still. I found a good dsm buddy to help me out too. After we get everything fixed and put back together were going to see exactly how the slave is working. I pray to god it was just a faulty slave and nothing else...I'm on a tight budget right now and my talon is my only car

evo9mrtt
February 6th, 2011, 12:48 AM
Ya I'm planning on going oem still. I found a good dsm buddy to help me out too. After we get everything fixed and put back together were going to see exactly how the slave is working. I pray to god it was just a faulty slave and nothing else...I'm on a tight budget right now and my talon is my only car

my1997gsx
February 22nd, 2011, 11:19 AM
I saw your car at Safeway the other night did you get it working?

evo9mrtt
February 23rd, 2011, 07:12 PM
Ya just ended up being a faulty slave. Bought a brand new oem unit...replaced it...bleed it. And walla great working clutch! Thanks again marcus for the help! Car runs amazing. A lot of chatter from the clutch when enguaged in neutral for some reason. But if you push the pedal in and out a few times it quiets up

hubbazoot (aka Jon Lewis)
February 27th, 2011, 01:15 AM
So uppon further inspection of my car i found my slave just hanging by the line under the car. The two bolt holes on the slave broke clean off. The bolts are still in the bell housing and all the fluid is gone...i apparently need a new slave. But what caused this one to break the way it did is boggling my mind. Anyone have this happen before?
So the bolts broke? Sounds like they were overtightened.

Mirage
February 27th, 2011, 10:28 AM
The actual slave mounting tab broke off.

The bolts and transmission tabs were fine.

The cast iron slave flange broke through both bolt holes.

Marcus

my1997gsx
February 28th, 2011, 08:26 AM
Warranty lol :-)

evo9mrtt
March 8th, 2011, 01:40 AM
Yup was just a faulty slave casting. The new oem slave is holding up perfectly! Thanks again marcus for the help! Went really quick!