View Full Version : 1g clutch pedal assembly out w/o steering column?
DSMtuned
October 20th, 2011, 09:04 PM
Hey guy,
I've read all the FAQs concerning removing and rebuilding the 1g clutch assembly. It sounds like you have to lower the steering column to get the assembly out.
Here's my problem. Over the years, I have run *miles* of wire below the steering column and above the vent ducting. I don't think I can lower or remove the steering column without disturbing my meticulously threaded wiring. Of course I never anticipated needing to remove the duct or steering column... I think I can get the ducting out without too much of a hassle.
So here's my question for you guys with experience in doing this brutal pedal assembly job. Is it completely necessary to lower the steering column to get the pedal assembly out, or can it be done without the column touching the carpet?
Thanks,
Craig
Mirage
October 20th, 2011, 09:19 PM
If it were me, I'd take the extra time and put connectors in line with the wiring you have strung underneath the column. Makes it easy for future removal and helps get you out of the bind for this job. GM weatherpak connectors are pretty popular and relatively inexpensive. Other than those, sky's the limit on what you can use.
It's difficult to remove the pedal assembly even with the column removed. It would be plain impossible with the column in place.
Marcus
DSMtuned
October 21st, 2011, 08:04 AM
If it were me, I'd take the extra time and put connectors in line with the wiring you have strung underneath the column. Makes it easy for future removal and helps get you out of the bind for this job. GM weatherpak connectors are pretty popular and relatively inexpensive. Other than those, sky's the limit on what you can use.
It's difficult to remove the pedal assembly even with the column removed. It would be plain impossible with the column in place.
Marcus
Good suggestion Marcus.
Where are people buying brass bushings for the clutch pedal assembly? Has anyone had luck with hardware store bushings?
-Craig
yokotabrat
October 21st, 2011, 10:29 AM
Craig,
You can get the brass bushing from JNZ:
http://www.jnztuning.net/product_info.php?products_id=3149&osCsid=31998605518b41afbb86c47dbdaa1f94
Bert
DSMtuned
October 21st, 2011, 11:11 AM
Craig,
You can get the brass bushing from JNZ:
http://www.jnztuning.net/product_info.php?products_id=3149&osCsid=31998605518b41afbb86c47dbdaa1f94
Bert
Thanks Bert.
It looks like that JNZ bushing is only for the one side.
I just found a pair of brass bushings sold though Shep. http://www.sheptrans.com/driveline/dsm_awd.htm
-Craig
TerryLiv
November 2nd, 2011, 07:42 PM
Craig,
I got mine from Shep.
Terry
DSMtuned
November 2nd, 2011, 08:04 PM
Craig,
I got mine from Shep.
Terry
Thanks Terry.
I'm preparing for the great disassembly...
-Craig
TerryLiv
November 6th, 2011, 08:58 AM
First thing to do is take the seat out. Or is that only for tall folks?
Terry
DSMtuned
November 6th, 2011, 10:20 PM
First thing to do is take the seat out. Or is that only for tall folks?
Terry
Well Terry, I'm 6'5", so the seat's coming out. :)
-Craig
TerryLiv
November 7th, 2011, 03:13 PM
Craig,
After a few in's and outs, I figured out that I didn't have to disconnect the seat from its center console attaching point, but just take the 4 nuts & the electrical connection off and lift the seat out and set it on the ground slightly behind the door location with the seat belt stretched but attached.
Terry
DSMtuned
March 14th, 2012, 12:03 PM
I just started the pedal assembly sugery yesterday. What a royal PITA! I'd rather swap clutches than this little project. ;)
I think I'm going to send the pedal assembly to Shep for a rebuild. It sounds like that's the best way to make sure it's right with all new parts and extra bushings for longevity.
Craig
sbiggi
March 15th, 2012, 06:14 AM
I just started the pedal assembly sugery yesterday. What a royal PITA! I'd rather swap clutches than this little project. ;)
I think I'm going to send the pedal assembly to Shep for a rebuild. It sounds like that's the best way to make sure it's right with all new parts and extra bushings for longevity.
Craig
I bought a new pedal and lever from MachV which I'll be putting in this weekend ($70). I already had the bushings and we welded the pedal assembly, but the welds broke after a year.
Mirage
March 15th, 2012, 07:41 AM
I've rebuilt several and welded them over the years.
I've always simply gotten the factory pIeces with exception of this last time. It used Shep bushings.
When welding, be sure to turn up the juice as much as you can to get plenty of penetration on the pieces while taking frequent long breaks to not overheat the assembly.
Marcus
sbiggi
March 17th, 2012, 01:03 PM
I've rebuilt several and welded them over the years.
I've always simply gotten the factory pIeces with exception of this last time. It used Shep bushings.
When welding, be sure to turn up the juice as much as you can to get plenty of penetration on the pieces while taking frequent long breaks to not overheat the assembly.
Marcus
Ya what happen on mine was teh weld did not get down onto the pedal rod with the flat part. So the lever was welded to the threaded part which snapped the threaded part off over time.
DSMtuned
March 17th, 2012, 06:25 PM
I just shipped the assembly to Shep. It will come with all new parts, bushings, and welded. It's worth it to me to hopefully only have to take the pedal assembly out once.
Craig
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